Bu Yao Wuhan!

January 2nd started off as bad as New Year's Eve. Packed up and waiting in the lobby at 7:00 am, we somehow found out that after the day's activities, we would all go to Wuhan by bus. Well, Wuhan is north, farther than Yichang where we started, and completely in the opposite direction from where we wanted to go. We had made sure that the tour finished in Zhangjiajie City, where we could easily catch a train to our next stop. To make a long story short, it took nearly an hour to get across to our guide that we didn't want to go to Wuhan -- 'Bu Yao Wuhan!' (I don't want Wuhan). We were FINALLY put on the public bus to Zhangjiajie City and left the group behind. We had a phone number and something else written in Chinese on a piece of paper, but that was all. We thought maybe it was the guide's office or his supervisor. The locals on the bus were very nice, helping me with my bags and getting off at our stop to point out the direction we should walk. We found the right building by reading 'BOITS' on a sign, which had also been on a card on our minibus the day before. We were taken to a tourist office upstairs where a girl lit a coal fire, sat us next to it, but a blanket over us and the metal contraption the embers were burning in (their version of a heater) and we figured out we should just wait.

We waited over an hour, breathing the coal but staying warm. Around 10:00 a young guy came in. He spoke English (hooray!) and tried to help us out. We basically spoke to him for over an hour, explaining our story. He tried really hard to work things out for us. He called the girl in Chongqing with whom we had booked this dodgy tour (luckily we had her business card). After lots of waiting, we managed to get 122 yuan refunded. Not enough, but better than nothing, which was what we expected. We also got a refund of the 14 yuan each that we overpaid for the cablecar (I wonder if that guide will lose his job for trying to scab money from his groups-probably not, as it's most likely expected here). We were very happy to get some money back. Since Xiao Yin, the guy, had 'nothing else to do,' he offered to help us around town, getting a hotel and buying train tickets. We made sure he wasn't going to charge us, but he said he'd be happy to help us out.

Xiao Yin took us to a hotel where he got us a room for 100 yuan, then took us to a nice restaurant for lunch. Of course we paid, but it was great to have someone read the menu for us! And he lives in the same building, so he eats at this place often. It was probably the nicest looking place we have eaten at in all of China, with actual decor! Over lunch we asked Xiao Yin all about himself. He's from Chengsha, about 8 hours by train from Zhangjiajie City. His parents have a small farm with chickens and pigs. He's 23 and taught himself English (!) by using the internet, watching TV and listening to the radio. He did a tourism course in Zhangjiajie and now his younger sister is doing the same course. He sends money home to his parents every month and is also supporting his sister. It was interesting to find out that he has a sister, since China has one-child policy. Apparently if you live in the country though, you are allowed to have 2 children, but only if the first one is a girl. So you get a second chance to have a boy, but not a second chance to have a girl! The laws were different at the time Xiao Yin and his sister were born, otherwise she may not exist.

After a great lunch, Xiao Yin took us on the bus to the train station where we bought our tickets to Nanning for the next day. Then we took another bus to a free museum of artwork done by a famous artist in Hunan Province (of course we can't remember his name). He is a Tijua, a native Chinese from this area. He uses all local rocks, stone and wood to create 'paintings' of the local scenery. The rocks and stone are ground up and the wood is chipped. He then glues the sand and wood to the paper or a wood backing to create the art. It is incredibly detailed, and each piece is unique. Amazing, but too expensive for us this trip. While we were waiting for the bus, we stood on the corner just outside a small restaurant. We noticed one of the shop owners bending over a large plastic red bowl on the sidewalk. He also had a hose which was streaming water. He was cleaning something, though at first we didn't take much notice as this is a common thing in China (especially washing dishes in the street). But as we waited, we wandered closer and saw that it was a dog carcass in the large plastic red bowl, gutted and de-furred. The guy was cleaning out the intestines and stomach. Gross! We went a bit further around the corner to the side of the shop, and there was a small cage with 4 mid-sized dogs locked up, looking very sad, and very aware of their fates. The worst part was that they were really cute dogs too! It was especially hard for Nigel to see, even though it's just a part of Chinese life. I guess we know where we WON'T be eating dinner!

We said goodbye to Xiao Yin and headed back to our hotel. But since there is no electricity (and, therefore, no heat!) until 7:00 pm, we killed some time by walking around shops and through the streets of Zhangjiajie. For dinner, we went back to the same restaurant where we ate lunch (can't beat cheap, yummy food!) and went back to the hotel once the heat could be turned on. So the day started off pretty rough, but ended well, and we made a new friend too.