Saturday, February 26, 2005

Nice kitty...

In need of some rest, we had a lazy start to the day. We had a late breakfast and spent some time on the internet. We then hired a motorbike for the afternoon and drove about 40 kms out of Kanchanaburi to Wat Seua. This is an active Buddhist temple in the jungle. A monk here once accepted two tiger cubs that were saved from being stuffed and mounted (it is common practice for monasteries to take in rescued animals). Then another cub arrived, then a few more and now they have about 8 of them: 2 cubs and about 6 adults. The monks allow people to visit the tigers, and actually pet them too! We arrived in the afternoon, paid our donation, and walked through the jungle property to a small un-manned booth. We turned the corner, walked down a dirt trail into a rock quarry type cavern and came across a beautiful site: all 8 tigers lounging around in the shade, two monks in saffron-coloured robes quietly watching, and a few hired hands playing with the cubs. We walked down and sat on a bench about 10 feet away from the nearest tiger, quietly watching them in their laziness. It was absolutely surreal. None of them were tied up at all, save for one big guy in the back. After sitting for a few moments, we were led to the tigers (one at a time) by one of the hired boys (or they could be volunteers I guess) to have our first encounter. Nigel went first, and I didn't really find the humour in his comment "Bye Kel, I love you." He walked around to the back of the two largest tigers, who were lounging on the sand. He squatted behind them, touched them to let them know of his presence, then was able to pat them for a few minutes while one of the boys took some photos with our camera. He was then led to one of the cubs (which are actually about Kel's size). He was sitting on a rock knawing on a very large bone. Nige sat next to him and got to pat him for a while too. Nige thought he'd be shit scared, but was actually really calm and happy in with the tigers. He also thought they would be a lot softer as well (they were quite sandy though). It didn't feel too far off from petting a dog, except that these were very large wild animals!

Next it was Kel's turn. As I went to pat one of the big guys, the other big guy right next to it decided to get up and wander away. So there I am squatting next to a huge beast with the other one towering over me. I was a bit nervous, but not scared at all. He wasn't really interested in me at all. It's just strange to be right next to such huge, beautiful animals when you know they could kill you with one big swipe of their paws. I also got to pat one of the cubs after the big guys. I sat next to him on his rock while he chewed his bone. I thought I would be scared as well, but not at all. They are just so beautiful, especially up close. They all have such different personalities, and their intelligence just seeps from their eyes.

We sat there for the next few hours just watching the tigers (only about 10-20 feet from us the whole time). The little guys were anxious to play, so two of the Thai guys ran around with them, played hide-and-seek behind a big boulder with them, and even wrestled with one of them. The cubs tried more than once to engage one of the bigger boys in a game of tag, but they wouldn't have any of it. After all of the other tourists came and went (luckily, there were not many at all), Nige and I were left there with only a few others. When it came time to close up, we were led to one of the far rock walls while the big guy who had been chained up the entire time was led away on a leash, a far from us as they could get him. But all of the others were led right past us while being taken to their homes for the night. The cubs acted just like small children and refused to be taken home. They wanted to stay and play some more, so they threw themselves on the ground and refused to move. We were beckoned to follow one of the monks up the hill as he led 2 of the tigers himself. He allowed Nige and I to walk right next to the tiger, petting him as we walked. And this was the one tiger that was not on a leash! It was so massive, and so beautiful walking along. We could feel its muscles beneath its fur as he wandered up the slope. The 2 cubs were still lagging behind, and at one point they had to be carried until the guys got too tired and had to put them down (it took two of the guys to carry one cub).

What a fantastic experience...we did not want to leave! But the tigers had to go to bed. So Nige and I closed the place down and were the last ones to leave. We rode back to town as the sun was setting, and nearly were blown off the road by the breeze. We had some delicious dinner, a cold shower and then treated ourselves to another Thai massage before heading to bed. One of our favourite days yet.

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