Monday, March 28, 2005

Post-Tsunami Phi Phi

After a late decision last night we arranged to go to Ko Phi Phi Don this morning. We checked out of our luxurious hotel and left to catch the direct ferry to Phi Phi Island. Initially we thought that it would take about 1.5 hours to get there. But the 'direct' ferry stopped at Bamboo Island for 1 hour for some snorkelling. This turned out to be a lucky break for us. We rented some snorkels and jumped into the clear water. The boat anchored near a coral reef just off the island (no coral was harmed as it anchored in the sand). We saw at least 50 types of fish within a small area near the boat. The water was so clear and the colours were amazing. If you looked up any tropical fish on the internet we probably saw it.

We arrived at Phi Phi Don around 1pm and I was a bit shocked to see a huge area of the island pretty much flattened from the Tsunami. Kel knew it would be like this. The worst hit area is near the dock and was a strip of land about 300 metres wide connecting two bays. Everything in this area was wiped out. There was just some coconut trees and rubble remaining. As we walked along the main street (path) looking for a place to stay we saw that the damage extended to the entire island. There are buildings in various conditions. Some are rubble, most are being repaired and others have been fully restored. After inspecting a few different places we decided on Phi Phi Andaman Legacy Bungalows. It is just off the beach and has an unheated pool. Unheated pool being about 28C. It is surrounded by sand and bits of rubble where a garden and grassed area used to be. We had our own bungalow with porch with sea, pool and mountain views and private bathroom. Prior to the Tsunami this place would have cost about 8-10 times more than we paid (400 baht, which is about $13 AU).

After checking in we took a walk around the main area of the island and saw how bad the damage was. This is also after 3 months of cleaning up so we can only imagine what it was like just after. We walked along the beach and looked at what was still being washed up. There is a lot of hotel debris like shampoo bottles and shower caps, clothes, shoes, cds, books, bags, fishing nets, kayaks, plungers, playstation controls, walkmans, hairbrushes etc. Basically anything you could think of. It was sad to think if the owners of these items might have died or are still missing. Despite all of this it is one of the most beautiful places on Earth.

After roasting on our walk we went for a swim in the ocean and the pool, had a few drinks on the beach and went to search for a game fishing trip. It took us a while to find someone still offering fishing as most of the bigger places were closed or had lost their boats. We arranged for a trip in a longtail boat (wooden Thai fishing boat) for tomorrow. We ate some dinner at Hippies (one of only a few bars/restaurants open) and went to bed.

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