Braving the public bus

Up early again this morning to catch a bus to Fatehpur Sikri, just west of Agra. We got to the local bus station, managed to find the right bus, and waited for it to leave at 7:15. This was our first experience riding a bus in India, and a public one at that. The seats were so close together that even Kellianne couldn't fit her legs in. It was pretty dirty with vomit splatters down the outside, and they blasted Hindi music all the way to Fatehpur Sikri, for about 1.5 hours. But once the bus started going, it really wasn't too bad. The bus was crowded, but not as packed as we've seen them, and since it was so early in the morning, the people didn't smell too bad (yet). It was a quick ride through mostly farmland, a few small towns on the side of the road, and lots of people out in the dirt dunes doing their morning business (we call them shit dunes).

Once in Fatehpur Sikri, we had a quick breakfast at the Ajay Hotel, then made our way to the ruins. Fatehpur Sikri was the capital of the Mughal empire from 1571 to 1585. Emperor Akbar built this fortified city, but since it was so far from a water source, it was abandoned after his death. Now the ruins are slowly being restored from a 'ghost city' to resemble what it looked like back in the day. We walked through the usual series of Indian buildings: Jama Masjid, royal palace, women's palaces, and our favourites, Diwan-i-Am and Diwan-i-Khas. Emperor Akbar had 3 primary wives, one Hindu, one Buddhist, and one Christian. As a result, the architecture is a mixture of all three styles. The Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audiences) is one of the most interesting buildings. Akbar had a place in the centre, and at each corner of the room stood a highly respected and intelligent representative from 4 different religions: Hinduism, Buddhism, Christianity, and Islam. Any issue up for discussion would be debated by these four men, with Akbar as the moderator. He used their opinions and advice to make important decisions during his reign. Akbar believed in Sulh-i-Kul (Peace for All) and taking common elements from many religions became a fair and just ruler.

Early in the afternoon we caught the public bus back to Agra. It was more crowded this time, and a lot hotter at nearly 42C, but still not too bad. Along the road we passed some dancing bears. Men have captured bears and use them as a tourist attraction by hitting them with a stick to make them stand up and 'dance' around. They operate on this popular stretch of road, getting money from people who stop for a photo. It is atrociously cruel, and something should be done about this abuse to animals.

Arriving back in Agra, we tried to have some lunch at what looked like a modern Western coffee bar/cafe but the sandwiches we ordered tasted like rotten vegetables and paint thinner (we haven't tasted paint thinner since China). So, about 100 rupees poorer, we did what anyone in our situation would have done: headed straight to the pub. We had a few beers at the rooftop bar we found the other day. It is not escaping our attention that at nearly every bar we go to, we're the only patrons, and Kel is always the only girl. But it's beer, and it's cold, and we don't really care. It was a great afternoon at the pub, and well deserved. We spent the rest of the day catching up on emails and relaxing.